ATM Withdrawal Withdrawals

As many of you know, until this Tuesday I’d been without a debit card for two weeks. Yes, I’d become “that guy”; I was borrowing money from people with absolutely no way of paying them back. I had an expired credit card, no working debit card, and no way to access my savings. Regardless of my situation though, the Bank of Rachel invested a lot of capital into my pursuits. I should take this moment to not only thank her, but also the Bank of Reed, as well as Lauren Financial Services, as they were my three largest financers. I really am fortunate that I’m here with other American students, because if I’d been traveling alone I would’ve been in a pretty tough situation.

Lesson learned: always have back up.

On a less serious note though, despite all being finance or economics students, no one who lent me money questioned how or when I would be paying them back. I found that kind of funny in its own way.

Other lesson learned: the sympathy card works better than the one-arm-pushup guy.

[For those of you who are not Northeastern students, and therefore don’t frequent Cappy’s at 2AM: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mlnzd8TO4kE. Feel free to fast-forward 30 or 40 seconds.]

Now this whole fiasco wasn’t entirely my own fault, and had Bank of America sent my [first] replacement card to China like I’d asked—and not Oregon—I would’ve only been without money for three to five days. I still question how they confused “Zhongshan Bei Yi Lu” with “35^th Drive”, but I have to give them credit for trying to make it up to me by rush-delivering my [second] replacement card to China. It would’ve been helpful, however, if they hadn’t taken it upon themselves to change my pin number without telling me. Cool, Bank of America, thanks for that one. They also have a strict policy of not giving out pin numbers over the phone, so sending it to me with my [second] replacement card would’ve been a nice touch. After a significant amount of begging, however, I was transferred to a department which reset my new pin number to my original one. Need I remind you of the powers of the sympathy card? It’s almost as if 20 one-arm-pushup guys were in that call center hustling them for me. How wonderful.

Anyway, I like to think that I’ve learned a few things in my life, one of which is to always look on the bright side. Sometimes things may not work out how you would’ve hoped, but you can’t let that bring you down. If there’s one thing that Grandma Wolf has taught me, it’s that when life throws you lemons, you take those lemons and make them into a delicious glaze to put on poppy seed bread. She also taught me how to make cheesecake, and that I’m remotely related to a pirate—the cool kind, not the Somali kind. I’m pretty sure there’s nothing she doesn’t know.

But I digress. This debit card fiasco caused me to have some interesting exchanges with people, which I might not have had otherwise. These are the kinds of things that make you grow as a person—or at least give you fodder to write about at a later date.

Firstly, I really hate having to ask people for money; it’s probably the biggest reason I’ve held nearly back-to-back jobs since I was 16. I thought that I could handle it for a week, but when Momma Wolf informed me of Bank of America’s street name—and country—mix-up, I accepted that I was in it for the long haul. I became strangely okay with knocking on people’s doors and requesting money, or asking “who wants to pay for Jason?” when dining out for meals. I think the only motivating factor for people was that they knew I was keeping track of my debts on a yellow post-it note—obviously a highly accurate and sophisticated method—and that I was probably going to pay them back later. I consider myself to have a high level of integrity though, and I can honestly say that I repaid everyone I owed money to. So that’s nice, makes me a good person, yada yada yada…

Anyway, the next interactions are only related because they happened while I was still on a high from my first ATM withdrawal in two weeks; it’s bizarre how much of a rush I got when the ATM didn’t immediately decline my card. Actually, it felt so good that I made the maximum withdrawal four times in a row just because of the feeling it gave me. Does that mean I have a problem…? Maybe. Pseudo-psychological issues aside, as I walked home from the bank with more Yuan than would fit in my wallet, I had a strong craving for xiaolongbao (dumplings). There’s a restaurant on the way home that serves them (“Red Place”), so I stopped in for a bite. Because it was an awkward dining hour, the restaurant was deserted and I got to enjoy my dumplings free of the usual crowds, cigarette smoke, and old men taking noodles to the face. You pay for your food at the same time you order it, so when I finished my dumplings I was about to leave—when the waitress brought over another plate of food. I was intrigued. I hadn’t ordered it, nor had I paid for it, so maybe this was karma’s way of apologizing for Bank of America’s tomfoolery? I had to investigate further.

The people at Red Place don’t speak any English, nor do they speak broken Chinese, so when I tried to tell the waitress that I hadn’t ordered the food, she just smile-and-nodded at me. I get that a lot here. She then brought me a bowl of soup, and yet another plate of food. Of course my first thought was that she had brought me someone else’s meal by mistake, but the restaurant was literally empty. I then ran through a list of other possible scenarios in my mind, but finally decided that she was just really happy that my bank issues were settled too. I finally had money, so it was the perfect time to give me a free meal. It’s so simple.

Thanks, China, I love you too.

In my defense though, I tried again to tell her that I hadn’t ordered the food, but got the same response; I then ate as much as I could, and actually had the audacity to ask for the rest of my free meal “to go”. 

My name is Jason, and I have no shame.

I’ll reiterate the fact that the people at Red Place don’t speak English or broken Chinese, so when I tried to make hand motions of me leaving with cabbage and chow mien, I got the same enthusiastic smile-and-nod response. I’m a little embarrassed to say that I actually thought she understood me; after 10 or so minutes of being ignored, I decided that I was better off just going home.

While I was walking back though, I remembered that I had promised myself that I would get a haircut as soon as I had money again. Let me take this opportunity to make it clear that I didn’t ever enjoy borrowing money from [13] people, and I did so only for necessary expenditures—like St. Patrick’s Day pub crawls. Haircuts, however, did not fit into the “necessary” category, so my curly locks had begun to fall into their natural, unruly state. Some of the other guys in my program had already gotten haircuts, and though they told wild stories of shampooing and head massages, one thing they all mentioned was that English was never spoken. I didn’t want to end up with some kind of reverse mullet—as is so popular here—so I came up with a plan: rather than smile-and-nodding at everything they asked me, I would have Figo [my Chinese roommate] write down instructions for the people who worked at the hair salon. Brilliant.

…Or so I thought. Figo was pretty confused by my request, and asked me no less than four times what he was writing and for whom. This obviously concerned me, because between me only knowing a few characters, and his terrible handwriting, I couldn’t read anything he wrote. Though I wasn’t sure what he actually put down, I figured at the very least that having something was better than having nothing. Then again, while I may love surprises, there’s always the possibility that Figo secretly thinks I’d look better with bangs or something. Whatever, the mystery note could be fun, right?

Right.

I walked into the hair salon, one of the employees made a scissoring motion to his hair, and I eagerly smile-and-nodded in response. (See? It goes both ways.) Anyway, I was in; at least they knew I wasn’t just another lost white person. The hairstylist fired off some questions, none of which I understood the first, second, or third time that I asked him to repeat them, and I finally just succumbed to the fact that I had to trust Figo’s taste in hair.

I’ll admit that I haven’t spent much time in hair salons—my roommate Nick has been cutting my hair in our living room for the past year and a half—but I’m fairly certain that the Chinese have a different take on the haircutting process than Americans do. There were four people in this haircutting establishment, all of whom touched my hair at some point. I don’t know if they had some kind of strange affinity for curly hair, or if all haircuts required this level of sheer inefficiency, but surely they could have managed the process with just one person. It took one to wash my hair, one to cut it, one person to wash it again, and one to blow-dry it. The last step was completely unnecessary anyway—though I did kind of enjoy the warm-breeze sensation—as the guy who washed my hair also dried it off with a towel. To finish it up, all four were involved in the payment process.

This is another exciting, though sometimes embarrassing facet of language barriers: paying for things when you have no idea how much they cost. It’s very similar to playing The Price is Right, but with the added bonus of incorporating purchasing power parity into your guesses. If you pay too little: game over. You get confused looks, and then yelled at by some very small Chinese woman for more money. If you pay too much: well, you still lose, and now Bob Barker is muttering about you under his breath while he struggles to find you an absurd amount of change. I’m getting better at this, but that’s still a relative concept because I was absolutely terrible when I first got here. Airing on the side of caution, I gave the haircutting collective 100 Yuan ($15 USD). They gave me blank stares for a second, sighed, and then all four of them began the process of finding me change.

It turned out to be a $3 USD haircut.

…Game over.

In the end though, I could’ve picked a worse country to have no money in. Bank of America may have left me high and dry for two weeks, but at least China gives me free meals and cheap haircuts. Most importantly, I’m here with other American students who are kind enough to buy me meals and loan me cash for basic necessities.

…

But that being said, you have no idea how good it feels to have money again. Can you imagine two weeks of your life without making any impulse buys? No gum? No busts of Mao? No pirated versions of the movie Shark-topus? It’s horrible. Having to constrain yourself in China is like going to Disneyland and spending the whole time sitting on a bench. But now, cross you fingers that this doesn’t happen again, those days are behind me at last. Next up: tailor-made footie pajamas.

I love this country.

Zai jian,

Jhw